Altrus
Coastermaker
I applied a then line of compound vertically down the cpu's center and then turned the heatsink clockwise and counter 2 degrees each...
and didn't ahve to change anything with the mount
and no poping or crackihng sounds
Building a new computer would like some advice
- Thread starter Altrus
- Start date
I applied a then line of compound vertically down the cpu's center and then turned the heatsink clockwise and counter 2 degrees each...
and didn't ahve to change anything with the mount
and no poping or crackihng sounds
I applied a then line of compound vertically down the cpu's center and then turned the heatsink clockwise and counter 2 degrees each...
and didn't ahve to change anything with the mount
and no poping or crackihng sounds
That's good that there were no unusual sounds. I was asking about the grease since most builders think more is better. If you put some on, and the mount the cooler and then take it off and look, you will see if you put on too much or too little. Just a way to help you get the idea of how much you actually need.
Rory Buszka
Partition Master
I want to comment on the discussion of PSU airflow that happened several posts back. I personally own and use an Antec NeoHE 500W (the new NeoPower series power supplies are the same, just updated for higher efficiency), and find that its single 80mm fan is almost perfectly as good for near-silent operation as the 120mm fan in the Corsair VX450W PSU.
The main difference here is that a PSU with an 80mm fan doesn't account for as much of the PC's exhaust airflow, so it's not drawing a large amount of warm air from the CPU -- just enough airflow to cool itself. A PSU with a 120mm fan will pull more of the system's total airflow through itself, so if your system is generating tons of heat, that heat is going to have more of an effect on the PSU's fan controller, and the PSU fan will rise and fall with overall system temperature. (Let me add that this is especially true if the case's other exhaust fans, for some reason, could not possibly move enough air on their own to keep the PSU fan from needing to spin up and make up the extra airflow needed.)
In my main PC, which has been designed from the ground up with silence in mind, I focus on having a rear exhaust fan that's capable of moving enough air quietly enough that I don't need to rely on the PSU for a significant portion of the total airflow. Perhaps what's telling is that the loudest component in my system (while at idle) is the Seagate 7200.10 hard drive, followed by my HIS Radeon 3870 card (which is just a smidge more audible than I'd like at idle). The power supply would fit in at number three, simply because my rear case fan and CPU fan are both silent at the low end of their fan control curve, and are set up to run intermittently as needed. The 92mm front case fan in front of my Seagate 7200.10 has never run (that I've seen) except on the hottest summer days in my old dorm room.
The main difference here is that a PSU with an 80mm fan doesn't account for as much of the PC's exhaust airflow, so it's not drawing a large amount of warm air from the CPU -- just enough airflow to cool itself. A PSU with a 120mm fan will pull more of the system's total airflow through itself, so if your system is generating tons of heat, that heat is going to have more of an effect on the PSU's fan controller, and the PSU fan will rise and fall with overall system temperature. (Let me add that this is especially true if the case's other exhaust fans, for some reason, could not possibly move enough air on their own to keep the PSU fan from needing to spin up and make up the extra airflow needed.)
In my main PC, which has been designed from the ground up with silence in mind, I focus on having a rear exhaust fan that's capable of moving enough air quietly enough that I don't need to rely on the PSU for a significant portion of the total airflow. Perhaps what's telling is that the loudest component in my system (while at idle) is the Seagate 7200.10 hard drive, followed by my HIS Radeon 3870 card (which is just a smidge more audible than I'd like at idle). The power supply would fit in at number three, simply because my rear case fan and CPU fan are both silent at the low end of their fan control curve, and are set up to run intermittently as needed. The 92mm front case fan in front of my Seagate 7200.10 has never run (that I've seen) except on the hottest summer days in my old dorm room.
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I completed it 2:30am July 18
Look at that...staying up all night to build. Like a kid on Christmas with a new toy.
Since we all needle each other here and point out imperfections when we truly know what the other person is saying, I'm sure you mean June, not July.
madmat
Soup Nazi
Antec's are basically the exception to the rule on 80mm fanned PSU's because they put in slower lower flowing 80mm fans than 99% of the other MFG's out there. The trade off is that the PSU tends to run hotter and as a result the life expectancy is lower than competing 80mm fanned units. The upside is that they're devilishly quiet and since they don't use the super temperature sensitive capacitors in the units made by Seasonic (all the current generation of Antec PSU's) they're not as inclined to die a premature death from the added abuse.
As long as you have great case airflow you shouldn't notice any difference but airflow challenged systems are still best to avoid Antecs if at all possible as you're still going to get less than stellar results. The HX520W I recommended is a better unit in that case.
Congrats on the new build Altrus, there's no better feeling than firing up a new PC, having it POST and open the bios for the very first time. It's even better when it's your very first build. The pride of accomplishment is nearly unparalleled.
There is a lot in BIOS that I don't even change. The manual should run through the basic and some advanced settings. Just ask about what you don't understand.
Altrus
Coastermaker
Well I was looking through it and manage to switch the memory to sli and the duo to 3.6ghz with no real change in temp or volt...so those are two questions is there anything wrong with this?
I can't seem to find anything that really explains overclocking online that isn't from 2000-2002...
Merlin
The Tech Wizard
First off, get Prime95 and set your clock back to default speed. Move it one increment and let Prime95 run for ~6 hours. If it finished and says there were no errors, move it up one more. When you start getting errors back it down and then you start changing the voltage. I don't run Intel so someone else has to help you with your CPU.
Altrus
Coastermaker
what do you mean by an increment?
You should be able to manipulate the external frequency that increases the clock speed of your processor through either a OS based program or in BIOS somewhere. That is how you overclock the processor, if you haven't changed any of this don't worry about it yet. Get all the drivers and software installed that you want and enjoy it for a while before you start tinkering.
Altrus
Coastermaker
Yes but did you mean I should just change it to what I want it at and test it or change it by a certain amount and test then change it some more?
oh yea and my bios has the power managements all set to auto which seems to be working all right...when I changed the duo from 3.0ghz to 3.6ghz last night, when I woke up this morning and looked at everything it had automatically changed the volts from about 1.9((I think somewhere near that)) to 1.31 volts....should I keep it on auto or set it manually?
Altrus
Coastermaker
......sadness......I updated the drivers for my 8800gt a few minutes ago and decided to run 3Dmark05.......my score droped from 20k to 11k I realized, thats not good, so I ran everest and after the update it changed from 650/1620/950
to 400/810/399.....help
edit----------------------------------------------------------
Changed back to the old drivers and problem fixed....
to 400/810/399.....help
edit----------------------------------------------------------
Changed back to the old drivers and problem fixed....
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Altrus
Coastermaker
That driver problem brought something to my attention the memory clock is 950mhz...on newegg it says that the memory clock is 1900mhz...and even under rivatuner the max clock is 1475mhz and I get a small yellow warning sign when it goes above 1175mhz...can anyone explain this...?
Altrus
Coastermaker
I haven't messed with it....didn't want to without know why it was like that....