I lost my know-how overnight!

[Krazy K]

I forget how you get a power supply to work. I plug it into the wall, and then flip the I O switch to the I, then plug in everything and push the power button.

What am I missing or where am I going with this?

Well here's where I'm going. On 8/26 I spent $140 on a PC power 750 silencer, nice huh. Well, today the second PSU arrived DOA, not so nice. 24 days after purchase, and like $13 bucks to ship it back to cali, oh plus the 140 that I paid to discover.

Is there a hidden switch? Is this a joke? Or am I unequivocally the worst buyer in the world?

8600GTS, M2N-SLI Deluxe, Hiper s580, my burner. Other than the case, hdds and the memory I think my entire computer has been RMA'd at least once.

Someone please sell me a colostomy bag so I know that I'll be getting a POS!

 

[Rob Williams]

Did you forget to plug in the small ATX wires to the board?

 

[Kougar]

Yeah, you won't get two items DOA like that, it tells your something else is the cause.

First, make sure every single plug is connected... the CPU has a 4 or 6 pin plug, the motherboard has its own plug, the GPU likely has its own plug, etc. Make sure they're all fully seated too.

Then, manually short the two pins to turn on the motherboard. It only takes a second or two touch with a screwdriver, etc. If you still have no reaction, make absolutely sure your BIOS clear switch is not in the wrong position. If the CMOS clear jumper is in the wrong position some boards refuse to start.

All said and done, if at this point you have no success... remove and disconnect everything and all the wires except the board, CPU, 1 stick of RAM, and a single hard drive, the bare min needed to run a comptuer basically.

 

[Merlin]

I forget how you get a power supply to work. I plug it into the wall, and then flip the I O switch to the I, then plug in everything and push the power button.

What am I missing or where am I going with this?

Well here's where I'm going. On 8/26 I spent $140 on a PC power 750 silencer, nice huh. Well, today the second PSU arrived DOA, not so nice. 24 days after purchase, and like $13 bucks to ship it back to cali, oh plus the 140 that I paid to discover.

Is there a hidden switch? Is this a joke? Or am I unequivocally the worst buyer in the world?

8600GTS, M2N-SLI Deluxe, Hiper s580, my burner. Other than the case, hdds and the memory I think my entire computer has been RMA'd at least once.

Someone please sell me a colostomy bag so I know that I'll be getting a POS!

Actually, It's worse than you think....
And.....They ARE after you

Just thought you should know

 

[Krazy K]

I'm swapping out my s580 so the system works, since it's running right now with the old unit installed. All the wires get plugged in, and all the king's men are here watching me do it.

Why short out the pins? We're big time around here.

I know it wont measure all of those at the same time, but it shows that I have 5VSB and nothing else anywhere.

Any other tricks? Perhaps Rob has a wire schematic floating around that I could see.

 

[Rob Williams]

Your goal is to just see if it works? The old trick is to take the PSU out of the case entirely, and while it's unplugged, connect the green and a black wire with a paperclip. If the paperclip has some plastic on it, bite off each end so the metal shows... plug one end into the green wire of the 24-pin connector, then the other end in one of the black ones surrounding it.

It's obviously extremely important to do this while it's NOT plugged into the wall. You will hurt yourself. With the wire in there, you can plug the unit in, then turn it on. What you did is essentially trick the PSU into thinking it's connected to a motherboard, so it will power on. If it doesn't, then something is wrong.

It's imperative to be careful though. Once that PSU is turned on, it's unsafe to go anywhere near that wire, so it's best to make sure you have it placed in such a way that it won't slide all over the place.

 

[Krazy K]

the jumper was the first test while it was still in the case. that power supply tester should be doing the same thing, didn't the picture showup?

 

[Rob Williams]

Oh, I get you now. That PSU tester really shouldn't be necessary, but did it work or didn't it? I'm a little clueless here.

 

[Krazy K]

yea, just like the first one i only get voltage on the 5V standby. that tester shorts out the green so you can get potential on all leads. i thot maybe that the fan in the silencer wouldnt turn on so thats why i put the tester on it to see if i had another bad one and i dont get any other voltages so i sent ocz a nice letter. they offered a pre-paid shipping label. i thot, jeez how bout a psu thay works?

 

[Kougar]

yea, just like the first one i only get voltage on the 5V standby. that tester shorts out the green so you can get potential on all leads. i thot maybe that the fan in the silencer wouldnt turn on so thats why i put the tester on it to see if i had another bad one and i dont get any other voltages so i sent ocz a nice letter. they offered a pre-paid shipping label. i thot, jeez how bout a psu thay works?

If the PSU never turned on, then your fancy PSU tester will only show the +5FSB, which is always on even if the PSU is off. So it sounds like you never turned the PSU on...


When I was talking about shorting the motherboard's ON pins to turn it on, that is exactly what I meant. You do this to rule out that it isn't the case switch or some similar issue that is not properly telling the motherboard/PSU to power on.

If you still have the system, disconnect all the case wires including the reset and power switches, USB, sound, and firewire ports too. Have the PSU and rest of the system fully hooked up like normal, then take a standard screwdriver and touch (Ie short) the two pins that turns the motherboard on.

Honestly, I do not think both power supplies were bad. I'm going to almost guarantee any third PSU you receive will also not work... I know for a fact PC Power & Cooling test each individual PSU they send out, that is what the included print report is from. So the odds are astronomical that the mailman killed two of them without leaving signs of damage.

I would suggest you talk to someone at PC Power & Cooling and ask directly if their PSUs have known problems with your motherboard... that sounds to me to be the problem at this point.

 

[Krazy K]

This is exactly what I was looking for, mundane things that I might have missed. Problem is, even after I took that tester off, shorted pin 4 and 6, connected a fan and turned the hard switch to on, I still didn't get anything. The psu is out of the case so it's not an issue with the board or case. I would like to call them but they are not open on the weekends.

I saw the printout for the first unit and figured it must have been good but when I talked to them they just said RMA it and don't bother testing. Maybe they know they had a bad run of them and are using me to find them all. I wouldn't bet on any of these theories but I am rather upset and have a bitter taste it my mouth.

 

[b1lk1]

If I were you, I'd RMA it and get a Silverstone DA750 or even one of the new BFG ES series PSU's. PC P&C are no longer their own company and I fear quality control is no longer a top priority like it used to be.

 

[Krazy K]

If I were you, I'd RMA it and get a Silverstone DA750 or even one of the new BFG ES series PSU's. PC P&C are no longer their own company and I fear quality control is no longer a top priority like it used to be.

This is what I have thought. I do like the Tech Report article on this unit. But it has cost me way more than what I paid for it and it still doesn't work. I'll look up those two and see which one is a better fit for me.

 

[Kougar]

This is exactly what I was looking for, mundane things that I might have missed. Problem is, even after I took that tester off, shorted pin 4 and 6, connected a fan and turned the hard switch to on, I still didn't get anything. The psu is out of the case so it's not an issue with the board or case. I would like to call them but they are not open on the weekends.

I saw the printout for the first unit and figured it must have been good but when I talked to them they just said RMA it and don't bother testing. Maybe they know they had a bad run of them and are using me to find them all. I wouldn't bet on any of these theories but I am rather upset and have a bitter taste it my mouth.

Shorted pin 4 and 6 on what?? If you attempt to short the PSU to turn it on, the circuit must be kept closed otherwise the unit will not power on. If you short the motherboard on pins, it only takes a 1 second touch and the board would then normally stay on.

It would be odd for PC Power & Cooling to have a bad run, since they've been making and continually revising the design of the 750w Quad for somewhere around three years now.

Either way b1lk1 is right in that you should probably get a different PSU. If one model PSU won't work with your specific motherboard, then you can try all the PSUs you want but none will ever work. Some ASUS motherboards have had issues with certain PSUs in the past.

 

[Krazy K]

The voices told me to do it.


This is what I mean pin 6 to pin 4. Pin 4 is the green wire that everyone seems to know intimately. The jumper or a tester will short these two and fool the unit into thinking that the power button on the mobo had been pressed.

The title that I lost my know-how was a result as me being clever. I really didn't use that gift certificate that my ex got me for a free lobotomy. I know what I am doing here and it seems that everyone really has missed that.

The board isn't the problem as it turns on the psu that's in the case right now. It isn't the case either. It's the psu, it's bad. I am only pointing out my affinity to attract broken or worthless components.

 

[Merlin]

The voices told me to do it.


This is what I mean pin 6 to pin 4. Pin 4 is the green wire that everyone seems to know intimately. The jumper or a tester will short these two and fool the unit into thinking that the power button on the mobo had been pressed.

The title that I lost my know-how was a result as me being clever. I really didn't use that gift certificate that my ex got me for a free lobotomy. I know what I am doing here and it seems that everyone really has missed that.

The board isn't the problem as it turns on the psu that's in the case right now. It isn't the case either. It's the psu, it's bad. I am only pointing out my affinity to attract broken or worthless components.

I asked about the pins a couple of years ago, seems there are no diagrams.
If pin 4 is green, what is pin 6?

Thanks

Merlin

 

[Krazy K]

I asked about the pins a couple of years ago, seems there are no diagrams.
If pin 4 is green, what is pin 6?

Thanks

Merlin

Koolance gives you a jumper to run the pumps to bleed the system. It fits 2 pins apart. Pin 6 is common with all other grounds, so one could use any black pin.
I'm out the door but I'll find that pin diagram and post it.

 

[Kougar]

The title that I lost my know-how was a result as me being clever. I really didn't use that gift certificate that my ex got me for a free lobotomy. I know what I am doing here and it seems that everyone really has missed that.

I always ask for clarification if I'm unsure about something, because it's usually the little details that get "assumed" that tend to be the issue or solution. Sorry if I was offending you.

I should have just left most of that out of my last post. The main thing that I wanted to get across is that, what are you going to do when you get the third supposedly "bad" PSU? I could see one unit failing in the mail, but not two. So, assuming it is a specific board+PSU conflict, RMA'ing it again won't help you as the 3rd won't work either. I wanted you to know that before you either pay to send it back, or wait another week just to get another nonworking unit. I could always be wrong, but this time I don't believe so.

ASUS has had major board issues with Antec PSU units in the past, which ended up with Antec having to redesign their units on more than one occasion. Original Antec NeoHE units would simply fail to turn on because of a conflict in how some ASUS motherboards returned the "power good" signal. It used to be a huge problem with the Antec Sonata cases, as those came with those PSUs. There've been others but I don't recall the details anymore.

 

[b1lk1]

Personally, I am just plain biased against OCZ power supplies. They have poor ripple surpression, and I feel that their takeover of PC P&C was not good for quality control. I have noticed more people complaining about them now than ever. I could be wrong, but I still would take any Silverstone over ANY other brand.

 

[Krazy K]

I always ask for clarification if I'm unsure about something, because it's usually the little details that get "assumed" that tend to be the issue or solution. Sorry if I was offending you.

I have been edgy with college and the unit failing, my mobo issue, and a stick of ram crashed in my #2 unit. The list goes on but that's my problem and if I was a bit crass about how simple some of the suggestions are I should have taken them with a grain of salt. After all I am the one here asking for help...talk about looking a gift horse in the mouth. Now I have to clarify that that is a clique and it is not implied that any one in here is an ass, or a horse for that matter.

It just seemed odd that two would come bad, but after they are removed from the case and tested with a ps tester or a paper clip. That should eliminate all of the doubt. PC P&C is trying again, I called them and they are testing a unit before they send it to me and are also sending it out before they get the second unit back. They kicked in a 4gb thumbdrive and a shipping label, not bad for a company worth a billion dollars.

We could all be right and a combination factors could lead up too this, which is the only way that catastrophic events can occur, enter my life.

Also for sale!