Zalman Reserator 2 Fanless Water Cooling

NicePants42

Partition Master
The in would most likely be straight from the reservoir since the stock setup has the output from the stock pump feeding it's output straight into the flow meter then out to the PC.
You don't specifically mention the radiator itself, probably because the term is less appropriate with this design - am I correct in assuming that the path from the stock pump outlet to the flow meter is what spreads the heat from the water to the fins (essentially is the radiator)?

So knowing that the most important detail is the reservoir/pump connection, the ideal setup with an external pump and the stock pump removed would be:

R2 IN >>> External Pump >>> Water Blocks >>> R2 OUT

Yes? Nothing funky in the flow meter path when flow is reversed?

Just trying to wrap up this guy's question.
 

madmat

Soup Nazi
Let me look at the manual again...brb with an edit.

Edit: Ok, I looked at the manual again and the stock pump pushes water through the lower part of the R2, up into the flow meter then up further into the rad and then out to the PC. So, yes running the replacement pump from the "in" to the R2 (which dumps into the bottom of the reservoir) would be the best option by a longshot.
 
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U

Unregistered and puzzeled

Guest
Resorator 2 and UPS

You guys are really zeroing-in on what concerns me!

While the manual itself is vague, the R2 is actually labeled with IN/OUT, so identifying that is NP. (The IN is on the right if you are facing the R2 from the ports side--this is the port the external pump is located on in the manual diagram).

Madmat says: "...The input on every pump but the MCP 350 comes in on the horizontal axis and the output leaves on the vertical axis...." This is good info, and something I didn't know.

He also adds: "...The line coming from the R2 [from the port labeled IN] goes into the pump's horizontal axis and the line from the vertical axis is going to the PC...." Thus (based on the manual and madmat's comment above) the IN on the R2 connects to the input on the pump (the X-Axis).

Later in this thread he says: "...the stock pump pushes water through the lower part of the R2, up into the flow meter then up further into the rad and then out to the PC. So, yes running the replacement pump from the "in" to the R2 (which dumps into the bottom of the reservoir) would be the best option by a longshot." This is also the way I see...

In summary:

R2 IN >>> IN External Pump>>> Water Blocks >>> R2 OUT

Only other question would be to echo :
"... Nothing funky in the flow meter path when flow is reversed?..."

I got the new pump this AM, and will tear things apart later--can confirm all this then--thanks for the feedbackl!
 

madmat

Soup Nazi
the only thing that you'll notice with the flow meter will be that it spins backwards and much faster... I hope that doesn't distress you too terribly much ;)
 

NicePants42

Partition Master
the only thing that you'll notice with the flow meter will be that it spins backwards and much faster... I hope that doesn't distress you too terribly much ;)
I think it'd be funny if the reverse flow trips the buzzer alarm. 'Warning! Performance optimized beyond specifications!'


Madmat says: "...The input on every pump but the MCP 350 comes in on the horizontal axis and the output leaves on the vertical axis...." This is good info, and something I didn't know.
Most water pumps (and all pumps used in PC cooling) are centrifugal pumps, meaning that they apply a centrifugal force on the liquid using centripetal acceleration (by forcing the water to flow around a circular chamber, generally with a rotating impeller). This creates high pressure around the perimeter of the circular chamber (where there is an outlet that the water is ejected through) and low pressure in the center of the circular chamber (where water flows into the chamber as the impeller rotates).

Most pumps are designed to be as simple as possible, and do not re-direct any of the flow (Eheim, MCP6XX, etc) but the MCP35X series adds a 90-degree bend to the inlet to make tube routing easier.

For some nice pictorial views and test data with modified tops, you can check out this thread (the MCP350 is also known as the Laing DDC, there is also a higher wattage model known as the DDC+) or this thread.
 
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madmat

Soup Nazi
Actually the DDC+ is the same voltage but draws more amperage for a higher wattage. That said it's considerably louder so if you're after silent operation I'd stick with the original and if you're after high flow go with the D5 as it's designed for 1/2" tubing and won't need a $30 top to make it native 1/2".
 

NicePants42

Partition Master
Post corrected.

I wasn't suggesting that those pumps be used with the R2 - hell even the MCP350 is probably overkill. It's just interesting reading.
 

madmat

Soup Nazi
I agree completely. I just wish that Liang had made a DDC or DDC+ that was native 1/2" as they really are nice high head pumps that have a lot of potential for people with densely populated loops or running impingement blocks.
 
U

Unregistered and puzzeled

Guest
Resorator 2 and UPS

All--thanks for your asistance! Succesfully installed the MCP 350 last week with amazing results! It was the proverbial 'piece of cake'. My CPU core temp has dropped ~5 C, the pump/Resorator 2 actually seem quieter, and now when my UPS transfers to battery backup, the R2/pump never hesitate (you may recall the may reason I started on this project was to remedy the situation where the Ehiem pump would stop once the battery backup engaged). Note: I still have the 12v of the R2 connected, along with the 12v for the the reservoir (allows the R2 lights, alarm, ect to work). AC to the R@ is no longer connected (pulled the pump, cut the cable---very easy, no need to remove base)

Used the following flow path:

R2 IN>>>MCP 350>>>H2O blocks>>>R2 Out

Within the R2, I can confirm the following: the reservoir passes thru directly to the R2In; the R2 Out is channeled thru the R2 base to the Radiator. Flow indiactior runs (backwards) about twice as fast as b/4, but is still quiet...


Thanks again...
 
M

Maciek Makowski

Guest
Two pumps?

I'm completely new to water cooling so please excuse a potentially stupid question, but was there any particular reason for removing the original R2 pump? Can't you run two pumps in a chain?

I'm considering replacing the stock block which came with R2 with Swiftech's Apogee Drive since I'm disappointed by current flow rate and also would prefer the motherboard to be able to notice that the pump has failed. Will I have to remove the R2 pump?

Thanks in advance.
 
M

Maciek Makowski

Guest
In case anyone was interested, I set up Reserator 2 in chain with Apogee Drive and they works nicely together with both pumps on. My only complaint is the noise generated by the Swiftech's powered CPU block.
 
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