Custom Watercooling

[jvargaszabo]

So I built my watercooling system from scratch, and just wanted to brag. Though, it hasn't been put in an actual computer yet, because of some leakage issues. I've also sandwiched a thermoelectric cooler between the waterblock and CPU to increase its effectiveness.

Swiftech MCR320 3x120mm Radiator
Danger Den Maze 4 AM2+ waterblock
Swiftech MCP655
Arctic CPU small reservoir
Kaze Master 5.25" Fan Controller
3x Enermax UC-12EB 120mm
430w random PSU

All this stuff doesn't quite fit in my case, so I've mounted it in an external case, the Raidmax Iceberg (I think.) I'm using 1/2 ID vinyl tubing, and that's pretty much why I'm having the leaky situation. I was having trouble fitting them onto the barbs, so I used heat to loosen and widen the openings, thinking they would shrink back to size as they cooled. This didn't happen, so I'll have to get some clamps and zip-ties to prevent leakage. By the time I apply the apparatus to my CPU, I'll be using a dielectric coolant.

The Peltier (TEC) module creates frost/ice from condensation on USB current and voltage, so I see no reason not to plug it into a standard 3 or 4 pin fan input on the motherboard.

All suggestions, questions, concerns are welcome.

 

[Rob Williams]

Ahh, if I wasn't so lazy, I'd consider a water-cooled rig. I can't comment much on the parts selected, but there are a few here who can (Matt, where art thou?). Definitely post pics once it's all installed!

 

[Krazy K]

How do you like that fan controller? Are the temp probe wires long enough or too long? Fit and Finish? Those knobs stick about about a half inch right? It looks good, although kinda busy with 4 knobs, temps and speeds, and probably no 'auto' setting. I don't even think it will fit behind my Cosmos door anyway, but I'll hear what you say.

 

[Merlin]

I'm looking into something using the TEC also.
When I ordered the NV200 water cooler from CoolIt, they sent a bonus gift of the USB drink cooler.
I took it apart and found it quite simple.
So, here is a cooling device that could maybe pre-chill or post chill coolant in a water cooling system.

Want to brain storm on this challenge?...... keep posting

Merlin

 

[Krazy K]

I'm looking into something using the TEC also.
When I ordered the NV200 water cooler from CoolIt, they sent a bonus gift of the USB drink cooler.
I took it apart and found it quite simple.
So, here is a cooling device that could maybe pre-chill or post chill coolant in a water cooling system.

Want to brain storm on this challenge?...... keep posting

Merlin

You can find the Peltier cooler all by itself in a few places on the net, but that would be too simple. Being a student of engineering, I'm morally obligated to overcomplicated this project. I have some catalogs that we use for lab equipment and I was going to look at one today and see what kind of specs I could find on the Peltier coolers. Once I find out more, I'll let you know.

 

[Merlin]

You can find the Peltier cooler all by itself in a few places on the net, but that would be too simple. Being a student of engineering, I'm morally obligated to overcomplicated this project. I have some catalogs that we use for lab equipment and I was going to look at one today and see what kind of specs I could find on the Peltier coolers. Once I find out more, I'll let you know.

Yeah?
I have a year of electrical engneer ( just enough to make me dangerous ) "chuckle "
If I could get some btu info, I could formulate the thermal transfer of each device, then there is wattage by heat, heat transfer. flow and all the other items

Merlin

 

[Krazy K]

Yeah?
I have a year of electrical engneer ( just enough to make me dangerous ) "chuckle "
If I could get some btu info, I could formulate the thermal transfer of each device, then there is wattage by heat, heat transfer. flow and all the other items

Merlin

That's all thermo stuff, more physics than electrical. I could design you a circuit that is power by bad breath that could output 6.3vac. The key will be is if your CPU has a TDE of ~140w and you put a 53w TEC on it then your cooler has to dissipate around 200w. They are not as efficient as I had thought but with a dT of 68*C you could really do some damage to those evil little heat...monsters.

Here's a good link that really explains how the Peltier effect works.

CUI makes Peltier coolers but I don't see any with a dT of around 140 for AM2+. What's the TDE on them newfangled Intel chips?

 

[Kougar]

There are all kinds and sizes of peltiers on ebay, many junk and some decent brands in the mix, all at half decent prices. I never considered sandwiching a peltier between my CPU and waterblock, but now thanks to you the idea is stuck in my head. Bah. Swiftech makes a waterblock/peltier combo block, it's not bad from what I remember: http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/swiftech_mcw6500t/


I know my watercooling loop can handle the additional heatload generated from the pelt, especially if undervolted... The better quality pelts tend to be more efficient, but their efficiency also depends on how cool you can keep the hot plate.

The Peltier (TEC) module creates frost/ice from condensation on USB current and voltage, so I see no reason not to plug it into a standard 3 or 4 pin fan input on the motherboard.

This is the problem. You cannot allow frost/ice to form, otherwise condensation will build up and toast your motherboard in very short order. This is the problem with sub-ambient cooling, especially so with sub-zero cooling... I suggest either undervolting your (I assume 12v) peltier to 9v, or even 7v if it is a better quality pelt. It'll chill the CPU but shouldn't cause condensation if you get the temps right. Otherwise you will need to insulate the entire socket area to prevent condensation from getting in to form on anythng.

 

[moon111]

How do you like that fan controller? Are the temp probe wires long enough or too long? Fit and Finish? Those knobs stick about about a half inch right? It looks good, although kinda busy with 4 knobs, temps and speeds, and probably no 'auto' setting. I don't even think it will fit behind my Cosmos door anyway, but I'll hear what you say.

I reviewed the Kaze Master 5.25" Fan Controller in a chrome finish. The wires are plenty long. Below is a picture of my scratch-built case. (during construction.) The drive bays pull out. The motherboard tray is located on top right of the picture. (This has a hood that goes over it.) Even with the 'drawer' part pulled out, the probes and fan wires are long enough to reach.

The knobs stick out 7/16th of a inch... so almost a 1/2"

The unit really doesn't look that busy at all. When the computer is off, it's a flat-panel. You can't tell there's a display there. I could use it as a mirror to shave. But when it's turned on, the rpm and temps come up. I think it's a sleek design. I just got a press release from them and it looks like they might be coming out with a brushed aluminum finish in silver and black down the road in case that's more you're style.

My apology for getting off topic. (jvargaszabo's Custom Watercooling) He started it.

 

[b1lk1]

I would absolutely NOT run a peltier off the motherboard. You will kill the motherboard. Pelts draw far too much current to do their job. The more you overvolt a pelt over 12V the better it will do as well. You need atleast 200W of power and 15V to really get benefits from them.

 

[Merlin]

I never considered sandwiching a peltier between my CPU and waterblock, but now thanks to you the idea is stuck in my head

From CoolIt, when I recieved my NV200 GPU cooler, I got a surprise of the USB drink cooler.
I took it apart ( of course ) and played with it, One side is ultra cool and the other side is very hot ( the heat has to go somewhere )
So, I don't think a direct mount of a peltier would work to a CPU, even with a waterblock to take away the heat

Merlin

 

[b1lk1]

 

[Merlin]

Sweet setup and great temps
Do you have the parts ( watercooling ) list?
I might be interested in etting up the same system

Merlin

 

[b1lk1]

I used the following parts:

1. Swiftech Apogee GT: It's been around the block and back, but it is an excellent midrange block. My overclocked E7200 has yet to see over 50C and I bet I could get the temps down alot more if I remounted the block.

2. Thermochill 120.2 dual 120MM rad: Big and powerful, works very well. This thing is nearly 3" thick so it may not be internally mountable in alot of cases. The MCR220/320 from Swiftech are good and much thinner, just not as much power.

3. Swiftech MCW655: Basically a Liang D5 pump. Powerful as well, excellent for
multiple blocks.

4. DangerDen 4870 full cover block: Astounding performance. My card has yet to see 40C.

5. Swiftech Micro-Res: People hate reservoirs, but they sure make setup a snap.

6. 7/16" ID tubing (PrimoFlex): as good as 1/2" and extra snug on the fittings. You don't even need to clamp your lines with this stuff.

If you look closely, there are alot of other things going on as well. I have 2 ASUS down-draft fans blowing on the moffsett coolers. Also, the case I am using is the Coolermaster HAF932 which is simply the best all around case I have yet to use in my life that out of the box can easily swallow all this gear internally.

 

[Merlin]

Oh Yeah, The HAF case is great, and the price is amazing for what you get.
Buddy of mine has the case and I drool.

Merlin

 

[madstork91]

and I drool.

Kinda unrelated to the topic. <3

I'm always scared of a water cooling setup... I'm afraid that I'm going to forget to do something and the whole thing will leak all over my computer.

 

[b1lk1]

and that is why you leak test for 24hours before powering up your PC.

 

[Merlin]

and that is why you leak test for 24hours before powering up your PC.

SO, You would measure all the tubing to size, then assemble, then test outside the case with a 12 volt power suppy? Maybe on another running computer ( outside the unit )

Merlin

 

[b1lk1]

You can do it that way as long as all your parts are mounted internally. I just use an old external ODD unit to power the pump while the PC is left unplugged during leak testing. You can get water all over PC parts as long as they are completely dry before you attempt to power them up with no harm.

 

[Kougar]

Exactly what B1k1 said. No point in testing outside the case, because simple things like tube routing/arrangement can cause a fitting to leak. Just install everything so the system was ready to be powered on, leave the AC plug disconnected, and use a secondary PSU outside the case to power the pump. 24 hours is usually all you need, just make sure to have the pump at full power to generate the most system pressure for testing.