Taking my TJ07 to the watcooling extreme [Archive]

NicePants42

09-02-2007, 03:42 PM

Last January I was lucky enough to get my hands on a second-hand TJ07 and some water cooling gear. The first owner had setup up a dual loop system, which I kept with only aesthetic changes until yesterday, when I started work on this project.

First I'll show you what I'm starting from.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/TJ07/IMG_0564.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2066.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2065.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/TJ07/IMG_0560.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/TJ07/IMG_0648.jpg
From these you can see that the loops share a common bay reservoir, and each loop is powered by an MCP655 pump. The CPU loop uses a BIP2 installed in the top of the case, while the GPU loop uses a BIX2 installed in the bottom. I was going for a back/red theme with some yellow highlights, so I used UV red plexi to help mount the BIP2.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/TJ07/IMG_0642.jpg
I have not been able to find a red UV coolant that's actually RED.

It's been said that the TJ07 is the best water cooling case on the market, and that it's perfect when too much is just right. With this project, I want to show how much I agree with these statements and create a tribute to overkill water cooling. I am hoping to be able to cram the following parts into this build, with everything mounted internally:

two Swiftech MCR320 radiators (one in top, one in base)
one Swiftech MCR220 radiator (in base)
two Swiftech MCP655 pumps run in series (in base)
D-tek Fusion CPU Block
Swiftech MCW60 GPU block (possibly two)
Swiftech MCW30 Northbridge block (or stock ASUS Blitz Formula)
EK Multi-option res 150

I also plan to use two quick-disconnect fittings (from Colder) so that I can easily remove the motherboard tray without draining the loop. We'll have to see how the space issue works out.

There are a lot of fantastic TJ07 project logs out there, and I will be borrowing heavily from them for most of this project. Two projects in particular that I recommend are Ladderman's (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146870) and AndyM's (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=149265&highlight=TJ07).

I'm going to start this project off with the feature that I haven't seen anyone else do yet - mounting an MCR320 in the top of the case. Stay tuned.

NicePants42

09-02-2007, 03:42 PM

As you can see from the pictures in the first post, there is hardly any clearance between the BIP2 and the top edge of the motherboard - in order to make it fit the fans were mounted directly to the red Plexiglass top plate in order to not waste the ~3mm thickness of the case top plate.

In order to mount the thicker MCR320, I'm going to have to create more room, so I decided to use two Plexiglass plates this time, stacked one on top of the other - the top plate would serve to mount the fans and radiator, while the lower plate would simply act as a 3mm spacer to make everything fit. I also have to cut out more of the top of the case.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2064.jpg
I started with an clear AC Ryan Acrylpanel, taped it up and noted the width of the pieces I wanted. The pieces were cut out on a table saw - it only took two cuts because the 490mm x 490mm size turned out to be very convenient.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2068.jpg
Once the pieces were cut, the spacer plate was loaded onto a Bridgeport manual mill and covered with some scrap material to prevent chipping. Here you can see how it was cut out. I didn't do the milling here - I suggest that you be friendly to the people that you meet, one of them might be a machinist. Here you can see the finished piece.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2072.jpg
Notice that the bit still managed to jump around a bit on the top left corner. I have enough material to make another spacer, but I'll probably keep this one. Also notice that 6 holes were drilled to mount the panel to the top of the case. The previous build used 10-32 socket head cap screws to secure the top plate to the case, and M3 socket head cap screws to hold the fans/rad. Here, I plan to use black-oxide 6-32 button head cap screws to mount everything.

The next thing we did was mill out the top of the case. Due to the uni-body frame and the size of the Bridgeport's table, we got a little creative.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2073.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2074.jpg
There is some scrap plastic material underneath the top of the case (white) and we made sure everything was clamped.

Milling:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2076.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2077.jpg
Almost done.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2078.jpg
Finished. I didn't take enough pictures yesterday, but here's one I just took showing how the edges look.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2111.jpg
Since the fans will be mounted through the top of the case, they will completely cover the edging so I won't be painting it. The chip on the left is actually the remainder of one of the old mounting holes drilled by the previous owner.

The last item made yesterday was the top plate - all we used was a hole saw.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2079.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2080.jpg
Looks pretty decent.

When I got home, I realized that I'd forgotten about the fan mounting holes on the top plate. Also, due to the limited table travel on the Bridgeport, I had to drill the top plate mounting holes into the case by hand. First I set everything where I wanted it and clamped.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2081.jpg
Then I just drilled through the top plate mounting holes through the case. In order to drill the fan mounting holes, I flipped to top plates over, set three fans into the opening in the spacer (which was now on top of the top plate), and drilled through the fan holes. Here's a test fit:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2087.jpg
Seems to work well. This next picture should clear up how these top plates are going to work.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2097.jpg
The three circular holes and fan mounting holes are in the top plate, whereas the wide rectangular opening is in the spacer plate underneath, so that the fans butt right up against the top plate, thus giving me another ~3mm of clearance for the MCR320. Tragedy struck when I untaped the spacer:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2096.jpg
I can remake the part, but I think I may be able to live with this. See, there are some mounting holes in the top of the case that need to be hidden - I'm planning to do this the quick and easy way - with a strip of electrical tape. I figure another strip on top of the spacer plate may go unnoticed.

But now it's time for the moment of truth - up until now I wasn't 100% sure that the radiator would clear the top edge of the motherboard. I did a quick test fit:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2086.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2083.jpg
Concept Proven! MCR320 + 25mm fans fits with a 3mm spacer.

Then I opened up a box from Jab-tech....

NicePants42

09-02-2007, 04:35 PM

Check these fans out.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2110.jpg
The top two fans here are Yate Loon -C fans (http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120x120x20mm-Case-Fan-D12SM-12C-Medium-Speed-pr-3826.html), that I got from Jab-tech. They are only ~20mm thick, meaning that if I use these fans, the spacer plate is unnecessary. Unfortunately, the two that I received both made some fairly annoying noises while running. There's a rubbing sound that I don't like - Yate Loon isn't known for great QC, but for decent fans for little money. If it weren't for the noise and the fact that I've already made the spacer, I might've used these.

While I'm at it, here's a look at the BIP2, BIX2 and MCR320.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2103.jpg
This is the BIX2. It's fin density appears to be the same as the BIP2, but it's much thicker.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2105.jpg
Here's the BIP2. The BIP series is the thinnest that I'm aware of - mounting it without a spacer plate would be no problem. Don't be fooled by the spec thickness though, this thing is NOT 25mm thick overall. If you look at the technical drawing, you'll notice that the TANK is 25mm thick, but when I measure the mounting brackets, it's more like 28-29mm.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2104.jpg
And here's the MCR320 - fewer fins per inch means less fan rpm required to push through it, and with all the radiators I'm planning to stuff in this case, fewer rpms will be nice.

More to come next week.

madmat

09-02-2007, 05:05 PM

Looks pretty good man. How thick is the plexi? I'm asking because if it's thick enough you could countersink the holes and use black socket bugle head machine screws and have the screws be flush with the plexi.

Also, do you know about flame polishing plexi? You expose a edge or hole (like countersinks) to a flame and it will gloss up like it was never cut. Just don't hold it there too long for obvious reasons. Two things about flame polishing... too long in one spot and it's over and after polishing do not expose it to alcohol or it'll shatter. Not into a million pieces but rather into a web of tiny cracks. It does do an awesome job though and with some experimentation you can make it look factory.

NicePants42

09-02-2007, 07:19 PM

The plexi is 3mm thick. I'd considered using 5mm thick stock, but I didn't want to have a huge block of material on the top of the case. Also, as of right now I'm planning to use fan filters (the same ones I've used before) or a radiator grill. Either of these will sit on top of the plexi and neither will be thick enough to really accept a countersink.

As for flame polishing, I had initially planned on sanding, but if I can flame polish with a lighter, I may use this method to clean up my outer edges.

madmat

09-02-2007, 07:21 PM

A torch style lighter should do the job nicely.

Merlin

09-02-2007, 09:01 PM

Man, THat's a lot of water. I guess you are not taking the case anywhere. Look's Great all lit up.
I'd like to see the temps when you get it all running

I'm running the CoolIt Freezone Chiller , temps are around 29C at idle and up to 40C at full load.

Merlin

Rob Williams

09-02-2007, 09:37 PM

Looks great so far Nate! Looking forward to the progress. Sounds like it's going to be one heavy sucker when it's completed ;-)

NicePants42

09-03-2007, 09:26 PM

Well, I didn't have much to do today, so I decided to try porting the two MCP655s I hope to use in this project. I think it went pretty well.

First, full credit for this mod goes to MartinM210 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150733). Martin has also been working on a very useful flow rate estimator (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151627) that may help you pick components for your loop. One thing I had first considered doing was using two DB-1 pumps in series and only two MCR320s to build a near-silent system, but since I already have the MCP655s, and want to make the most of the space in the bottom of the case, I like my current plan. Silent is nice, but I'm going to try to use fan control in this system, and the MCP655s are adjustable.

Anyway, on to the pictures.

First, these are the two Dremel tools that I used to complete this modification (thus far).
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/IMG_2114.jpg

Here's the inside of the first MCP655 before the mod:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/IMG_2118.jpg
The idea here is that the outlet needs to be smoothed out - there is a pretty big lip on it that needs to go, and things need to be more rounded in general. Here's how it looks now:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/IMG_2120.jpg
You can tell I did this by hand :D
Most of the material was removed using the #104 cylindrical cutter head @ 6000-8000 rpm. I'd never done any of this before today, so it was a learning experience, but here's a general idea of how I'd do it:

1. Cut away the lip in the picture and start rounding the edge.
2. Once the entrance to the outlet is mostly flat, send the cutter head in through the outlet hole itself (making sure that it protrudes all the way into the inside of the housing) and open up the inside diameter.
3. Use the cutting head from the inside of the housing again to lean and round to the now slightly larger ID.
4. Clean up with the conical grinder (#7144).

I ran into trouble with my grinder because it's shaft was too small to lock snugly into my Dremel, so it slid in and out while running and thus I couldn't apply pressure in all the ways that I wanted. I think a circular or semicircular grinder or cutter would work better, so I may get one.

Here's the second pump before the mod:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/IMG_2121.jpg
And after:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/IMG_2122.jpg

The flash really emphasizes the scratching and I haven't cleaned out the chips yet, so they look a little rougher than they really are. Overall I'm pretty happy with how they came out; getting rid of the lip there should earn me most of the performance improvement I'm after, and the rounding is good enough.

I'm about to order some more parts that will be mounting in the bottom of the case. Later this week I should be able to figure out how I'm going to lay the components out.

Rob Williams

09-06-2007, 04:54 PM

Looking good man! I wish I knew more about modding in general to offer some worthwhile insight, but I know nothing so I will just sit back and watch. :D

moon111

09-07-2007, 12:00 AM

Would one of those flexible dremel shafts of helped (how do I say this without dirty minds reading into this?) get your bit in deeper?

NicePants42

09-08-2007, 01:23 PM

Would one of those flexible dremel shafts of helped (how do I say this without dirty minds reading into this?) get your bit in deeper?I actually have one of these - it's used more for fine control (like while engraving) than for extending reach. I'd need the actual bit to have a longer shaft in order to get in through the outlet port.

I haven't been able to do much in the way of machining or assembly yet, but some new parts came in, and I'm getting a decent idea of how the lower compartment of the case will be laid out.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2150.jpg
First, I got a nice brick of 120mm fans. I'd spent some time testing various fans before deciding what to order for this build. I tried out a Sythe S-Flex (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49&products_id=4072) Medium speed fan, and Enermax ENLOBAL (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49&products_id=20438) fan, and a few different Yate Loon fans. I was very impressed with the quality and silence of the S-FLEX fan, but not impressed enough to spend $14 per fan. The ENLOBAL fan was quiet but also didn't move much air. In the end, I decided that Yate Loon Medium speed fans were the best combination of good airflow with low noise - a simple $12 Rheobus would add even more flexibility.

The thing with Yate Loons is that the quality is fairly variable - in this instance, I purchased 12 fans ($36!!) and took the time to listen to each of them on a Rheobus. I found that while all of the fans sounded great in the vertical position, 9 of the fans produced a noticeable rubbing noise when rotated to the horizontal position. Since I'll only have 3 fans mounted horizontally, this works out.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2151.jpg
I'm thinking of trying to mount the rheobus in the base, with the knobs sticking out the back.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2152.jpg
Here I've taped out the space in the base.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2157.jpg
The side with the triple radiator can easily fit one of the MCP655s in the back. The only trick here will be fitting the rheobus behind the pump.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2161.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2162.jpg
The other side is going to be more cramped. Aside from dealing with the wiring (I'll be using a different PSU, but the dimensions are the same as the one pictures), the pump needs to be oriented in a somewhat funky manner, and it looks like this is going to push the radiator up towards the front slightly, meaning that up to 1" of fan surface may not line up with the side grills - something I was trying to avoid, but not a big deal.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2160.jpg
Top view. Mounting the pump will be fun.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2155.jpg
Here's about where the Multioption res will go - I'm not a fan of the new mounting brackets - clear is nice but the sharp edges will mark the clear tube. The tape in this picture marks the edge of the motherboard as well a line for a plate of aluminum which I'll use to mount the reservoir and hide some wires. It'll probably be at an angle -http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2154.jpg
like this.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2163.jpg
I also got some copper fittings to help with the tube routing down there - it'll mean more connections and more hose clamps, but in this case it's going to be a necessary. Martinm210 has done some nice testing to show that the copper fittings result in the lowest pressure drop, (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=157349) so at least I know that I'm using the best 90-degree fitting solution here.

Hopefully I'll have more soon.

NicePants42

09-11-2007, 12:03 AM

Ok, so apparently planning stuff out doesn't excite you people. How about some action?

We'll start with the easy stuff. I know I've seen this mod somewhere before - I'll link the log if I find it. EDIT: Found it. (http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1063659&highlight=maxx) Anyway, here's that fan controller I said I was thinking about sticking in the base.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2165.jpg
That's about where it needs to go. I had originally thought that I'd just cut a clean sheet of black aluminum, drill some holes for knobs and mounting screws and replace the perforated back panel, but those heatsinks are going to need some air, so I decided to hack up the stock perforated panel.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2166.jpg
Here you can see where the knobs need to come through. Drilling through solid plate would've been easier than hacking through that perforated stuff, but this particular part of the mod isn't about being easy.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2174.jpg
After much drilling and dremelling, the holes are big enough to fit the knobs.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2175.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2176.jpg
Ta-dah! 20 watts per channel of stealthed fan control, less the obnoxiously bright LEDs.

And now for the part you probably haven't seen before - that boring piece of tape at that boring angle...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2168.jpg
Plus a cheap piece of 6"x18" project aluminum from Lowes (they cut plexiglass to size!!)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2169.jpg
Held in place after a quick dremel cut to length.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2173.jpg
I cut a couple pieces of aluminum angle for mounting brackets.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2183.jpg
Held in place, drilled some holes, and attached the brackets to the plate with my trusty pop-rivet installer thingy. (I actually removed those rivets and cleaned the surfaces before installing new rivets to make sure that everything was flat.)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2180.jpg
Then it's just a matter of drilling mounting holes in the case for screws.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2184.jpg
And now I've got a nice removable panel there. The panel extends forward at an angle slightly past the rear of the front 5.25" mounting panel, so I bent the top a little and added another mounting screw to keep the thing from wobbling, seen here...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2195.jpg
..and here in the top right corner.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2187.jpg
At the top you can still see the blue tape that marks the edge of the motherboard. This plate should help to cover the wires up to that point pretty well. If the plate seems short, remember that the MCR320 in the top will be hanging down in there - it won't seem short then.

Here are a few views form the top.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2192.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2193.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2196.jpg
I'll probably still end up cutting the motherboard tray in order to more easily fit thicker hunks of cable (you can see that the main 20pin cable bends the aluminum plate), but this plate will help to hide any smaller (SATA, floppy) cables, as well as any holes.

Not only will this plate help to hide wires, it will also give me something to mount the reservoir to other than the motherboard tray. This way, I can remove the motherboard tray without removing the reservoir, which will help to reduce the hassle of changing out hardware. During assembly I'll try to make the most of this - I'm hoping to make it very easy to perform a hardware upgrade. ;)

And that about covers everything I've done thus far. This Saturday I hope to be able to machine some blocks to help mount the radiators at the right height, and that should just about do it for machining.

The problem I'm facing right now is availability of parts - Petras is out of several of the barbs I'd been planning to use, as well as the MCW60 + G80 adapter plate and D-tek Uni-sink. D-tek is supposedly releasing a new version of the Uni-sink by the end of the month. I'm also undecided on what motherboard to use - I was originally thinking I'd get the ASUS Blitz Formula (love that integrated watercooling) but considering my other parts issues and the fact that X38 will be released in ~ 2 weeks, I might just wait it out and get my old system running on air temporarily.

Anyway, hope you're enjoying the mod!

Rory Buszka

09-11-2007, 12:15 AM

Wow, this is an incredible case mod that in my opinion really gets back to the original spirit of case modding. Back before every joe and jane could buy a pre-modded case with LEDs and bling, y0. The vertical milling part in particular is very cool. I don't really like working with plexi, though - cutting it on the table saw sends a shower of stinging melted plastic back at me. I don't think I even want to try using my router on the stuff, unless I want to make a dash to the ER with a broken wrist. I like those UV-sensitive orange fans you started with.

price0331

09-11-2007, 08:42 AM

Wow, your quite outdoing what any above average joe would do here, very nice design and mod work. all ive ever done was change case lights haha.

NicePants42

09-16-2007, 11:24 PM

First, you'll remember that my acrylic spacer plate for the top radiator got cracked. I believe that instead of the cracked plexiglass spacer plate, I am going to use nylon - since the spacer plate itself was covered with scrap nylon while being machined, we already had a nearly complete piece, and it took very little work to cut the scrap to the correct length and width. This spacer plate will not break as easily, is black, and is also 6mm thick instead of 3mm - something I wasn't sure would look good, but having looked at it, I'm satisfied.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2215.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2216.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2217.jpg
It also means I'll have another 3mm worth of space up top - while everything fit before, another 3mm ertainly won't hurt anything and will probably make it easier to route the CPU AUX power cable up there.

My work associate finished up the hard parts of the radiator mounts on Saturday.

Before I start explaining what I'm doing, let me say that in hindsight, I don't think mounts like these are necessary, and I've spent a lot of time doing manual drilling/tapping that may have been needless. In short, I'm sure that there's a better way to hold these radiators in the bottom of the case.

Anyway, in general we use right-angle something-or-other to hold radiators in place. I also need to raise the radiators ~1/2" off the base of the case to align the fans with the mesh openings in the side panels of the TJ07. I decided to use some (scrap) nylon as the base and add right-angle joints (cut from stock aluminum angle) to fasten the radiators.

First the nylon is machined.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2212.jpg
Notches were cut where the angle would be mounted, and holes were drilled to mount the nylon to the base of the case. Here you can see the notches and how they line up with the fan mounts. The nylon will be on the bottom of the radiator when installed.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2220.jpg
Here's the aluminum angle that was cut to length. It looks like ass compared to the machined nylon, but it'll never be seen.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2253.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2251.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2256.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2257.jpg
In the last two pictures the holes have been drilled, and everything is mounted. I test-fitted with both side panels to make sure that there were no clearance issues. I tapped the holes in the nylon that hold the aluminum angle, and I tapped the holes in the bottom of the case that holds the entire assembly. My main problem was drilling holes in the aluminum that matched up with the fan screw holes on the inside of the radiator. I'm going to have to slop up these holes because I drilled them by eye, but I'm already using washers to attach them to the radiators, so it will work out. I'll also be adding some mounts to hold the radiators from the top, but I didn't get to those yet.

I had a problem when I tried to fit the Cooler Master Real Power Pro 1000 into the case - I found that it's mounting holes are oriented such that it can be mounted to the rear bracket, but then the bracket cannot be mounted to the case correctly. The hole locations on the PSU cause it to collide with either the bottom of the case or the top of the case (depending on how it's attached) so that the holes on the case and bracket don't line up. This may be able to be repaired by hand with a drill, but since the Bridgeport was working today anyway, I figured it'd be best to do it there.

Here's how the rear bracket looks now:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2243.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2247.jpg
The mounting screws on the bracket fit in the lowest part of the machined holes. The aluminum in some spots is now pretty thin, so I used washers to help spread the load.
The PSU fits fine now.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2248.jpg

So, now that the PSU is mounted, I can get the pump in there and figure out where I need to drill the mounting holes.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2260.jpg
This pic isn't that great, but I've actually cut off several of the grips on the sides of the pump, decreasing it's overall diameter by ~3/8". This allows me to cram things together a little more so that I can keep the MCR220 lined up with the side grill opening, and clear of the front button pcb on the TJ07. I like this position better than the wacky orientation I was originally thinking would be necessary - this gives me more space between the MCR320 and the inlet (for tube bending), gives easy access to the speed controller and doesn't require any fancy mounting method.
In case anyone asks, those fins on the MPC655 are not for dissipating heat - they are there to make it easier to take the pump apart. The ring with the grips is actually a threaded retaining ring that holds the molded front inlet/outlet (which I worked on in post # 9) and motor together. It can be twisted off and on to disassemble/reassemble the pump.

I haven't taken many pictures this evening because most of my time has been spent drilling and tapping holes in the base of the case, and cutting a lot of screws to length. The layout is going to work well, although making all the tube connections might be a challenge.

Anyway, I'll be working on this more this coming week. There's more hardware on the way, so I hope it'll be interesting.

Merlin

09-18-2007, 12:14 AM

Man this is great....

I have an idea with a render farm box, using a humidifier enclosure.
I could get two computers into one box with plenty of cooling room.
This build you have going here is giving me ideas on the cooling of both computer in one case.
I'll get this into a cad program for blue prints.

Merlin

moon111

09-19-2007, 10:20 AM

Very interesting, can't wait to see this completed. I just bought some 120mm Yate Loon fans myself. They seem to be selling everywhere for an extremely low price. Haven't tested them.

Question, have you thought about rolling the edge of your cut panel? Fold 1/4" completely over, or bend that 1/4" to 90 degrees, place a wire in the crease then hammer the edge over. If done right, can make a nice edge.

NicePants42

09-20-2007, 10:28 AM

Very interesting, can't wait to see this completed. I just bought some 120mm Yate Loon fans myself. They seem to be selling everywhere for an extremely low price. Haven't tested them.After speaking to a couple people, I believe that the fans that I have are not genuine Yate Loon Fans. However, I could be wrong, and I did test a genuine Yate against these fans, and the noise difference was not noticeable.

Question, have you thought about rolling the edge of your cut panel? Fold 1/4" completely over, or bend that 1/4" to 90 degrees, place a wire in the crease then hammer the edge over. If done right, can make a nice edge.I had considered chamfering the edge of the nylon panel to ~1/16" x 90 degrees with a cutter we have here specifically made for chamfering - but I actually think that it looks better as-is. I ran a utility blade along the sharp edge to break it. If I were able to modify the acrylic panel such that it's edges matched the nylon panel, I might do it, but for fear of breaking the acrylic I'm going to leave it alone.

Update to follow.

NicePants42

09-20-2007, 10:59 AM

Due to the limited amount of time I have outside of work during the week, this update is going to be kind of scattered because I didn't work on any one thing very long.

Starting with the rear fan controller:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2265.jpg
Turns out that the top two heatsinks interfere with the pump placement. I know the pic isn't great, but the pump is sticking out of the case.

Since only a portion of the heatsinks were in the way, I decided to modify them a bit. I'll try to explain how to get them off.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2271.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2272.jpg
In these two pictures you should be able to see that each heatsink has two tabs that stick through the board. These tabs are then twisted so that they cannot be pulled back through the pcb, and then the base of the pcb is covered in that foam stuff. Ignore the socks.

So, after unscrewing the heatsinks on top, I located the tabs on the underside through the foam by feel, then used a pair of needle-nose pliers to straighten them. From there a little pulling and twisting will dislodge them.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2269.jpg
Here's a closeup of one, where you can see the tabs in question.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2273.jpg
Having removed the heatsinks the pump now fits very well, and you can see that the rear-most portion of the heatsinks won't be a problem - so...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2282.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2283.jpg
Snip! I actually removed a bit more from the top after another test fit.
Now, the plan is to cut a small sheet of aluminum and use solder to connect it to all 4 heatsinks (to share the load) and to the aluminum mesh panel (for more surface area). That part will probably be done when I start messing with the wiring (which will also require a solder iron).

So, knowing where the rear pump will fit allows me to mount it.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2280.jpg
I hold it in place, make pencil marks, and then clamp the pump base to get my hole locations.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2285.jpg
Slap on some gel-stuff from Petras...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2289.jpg
...and there it is.

Here's a shot from the inside looking back before the pump was mounted.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2276.jpg

As for the other pump, the holes were drilled in the same way, but...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2264.jpg
...they came out the bottom right where the material is at an angle. Oops. It might've been a problem if I had planned on having a bolt head or a nut down there, but instead I just tapped the holes and used mounting screws that don't stick all the way through.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2292.jpg
Mounted with more gel-stuff.

More to follow momentarily.

NicePants42

09-20-2007, 11:19 AM

At this point the lower part of the case is pretty well taped out. Here you can see that assembly is completely feasible.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2290.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2292.jpg

So I figured I'd try to assemble the top portion and find out what still needs to be done up there. It was also an excuse to open up some hardware.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2297.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2299.jpg

The top radiator assembly went together pretty easily.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2313.jpg
And looks pretty nice and clean, IMHO.

More assembly:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2317.jpg
Here I've added the HDD rack and the aluminum panel I made. I mounted one of the HDDs in reverse to get an idea of what I'd have to deal with in order to completely hide the cables.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2318.jpg
By drilling new holes, I can move that HDD in ~1.375" and still have room for the cables in the front. As of now I'm planning to do this on Saturday.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2320.jpg
And here you can see one of the SATA cables plugged in and the general reservoir location. One picture that I'm kicking myself for not taking is before I added the top radiator assembly (which currently prevents the mobo tray from sliding all the way in), the edge of the motherboard (and that SATA cable) is completely hidden by the aluminum sheet. It looked awesome. :( However the main power cable is going to cause some serious problems because it won't bend hard enough. If they make 90 degree adapters for 24pin power cables, I need to find one.

I also need to do some cutting on the motherboard tray for cabling, and the top rear bracket needs to be cut.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2316.jpg
Since I switched to a 6mm spacer plate from the 3mm one, I was thinking that this bracket (taped) might clear the radiator - close, but no cigar. Yeah, I'll try to clean up that nylon edge, too.

That's pretty much where I'm at. Everything is going to fit, although the tubes are going to be a royal PITA to install. There's a bunch of small things that need to be done, but the end is in sight.

Deathspine

09-21-2007, 01:40 AM

Joined the forum just to say thanks for sharing. This thread has been most informative. You approach to installing a radiator in the top of TJ07 is the best I have seen. Most importantly I am learning alot from you. I look forward to your next update.

NicePants42

09-23-2007, 10:06 PM

I was able to wrap up a few things this weekend, and if all goes well the last of the components will be here on Wednesday.

First, I got the Silverstone HDD cage and took it apart.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2300.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2307.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2312.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2310.jpg
I basically took everything apart and removed the mesh panels to decrease any turbulent noise.

Since I'm trying to hide the wiring, and haven't seen it done before, I'm also going to try and mount the hard drives reversed so that the cables come down the front of the case, and therefore are hidden from view completely.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2318.jpg
Here you can see the lower drive mounted stock, and the upper drive is mounted in reverse using 2 of the stock holes. It sticks out too far, so...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2321.jpg
I marked out some new holes.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2341.jpg
Here they are drilled. Basically I moved the two right-most (in the picture) stock holes forward (left, in the picture) 1.25". The drive will still stick out the back, but not nearly as much.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2339.jpg
I also cut a hole for the wiring.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2342.jpg
And here we have four hard drives installed and a custom power cable I made to keep things tidy. The SATA cables will be here Wednesday.

It's still not going to be a picnic routing the cables because of where they come out - I'll have to mount the drive cage right above the 3.5" bay (which holds the stock USB/audio panel) so that there's room to take the cables to the lower portion of the case. There's still be a couple cables visible from the optical drive, but I like how the HDDs are looking.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2349.jpg

I also managed to finish up the rheobus I'd been hacking up earlier. You'll recall that I chopped up two of the heat sinks and I wanted to make sure that nothing was going to overheat.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2332.jpg
I grabbed one of the aluminum mesh panels from the HDD cage...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2334.jpg
...and used Arctic Silver Adhesive (it needed to be used, it was 2 years old) to attach the HDD mesh panel to all four heat sinks and the rear mesh panel, so now the whole thing is one big heat sink, which should be significantly more surface area than stock. Here it is installed:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2343.jpg

I had initially tried to solder the pieces together but my puny soldering iron was not powerful enough to heat up the metal pieces. I'm sure that the Arctic Silver will do the job.

Also, I taped out my motherboard tray for some drilling and dremelling. This is one operation that I wasted some time on because I didn't think everything through.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2323.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2326.jpg
Some holes are drilled to mark what I want to remove.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2347.jpg
And due to lack of pics we skip straight to the end. I'm satisfied, but the hole cutting could've gone better if I had made sure to drill out all four corners of each hole, rather than just two corners in some cases.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2325.jpg
I also cut out the bracket so that the motherboard tray will fit in with the top radiator installed.

The aluminum divider plate also needed some holes cut to route power wires. The taped piece in this picture is another piece of plexi that I had left over that will set on top of the divider plate. You'll see why when the system goes together.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2336.jpg

I also did some wiring work on the fans.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2327.jpg
The tools I'm using. Note the flux - I've learned that I shouldn't try to solder without flux.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2328.jpg
I expose the wire on one fan, and cut the wire to length on the neighboring fan.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2329.jpg
Then I solder them into a chain, using one rpm line.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2331.jpg
The fans are actually running in the pic above.

I'm not good at soldering - even with flux I tend to leave blobs. This is probably because I do it all without clamps/grips/holders of any kind, but since the wires won't be seen, it's never really mattered. The rest of the fans were attached in the same fashion.

Aside from that, I've been testing the assembly trying to make sure that there aren't any unpleasant surprises when I'm ready to set everything up.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2350.jpg
Here's a look at how some of it should look. Note that I performed Ace-A-Rue's heatpipe modification on the IP35 Pro (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2330347&postcount=751). I'm pretty happy with the lack of cables on the HDDs, and for the most part the motherboard cabling is pretty well hidden. The one small problem I'm having is that the aluminum panel meant to hide the wiring is too close to the motherboard to allow the 24pin power connector to bend 180 degrees without making contact. Thus, the wires on the 24pin connector are bending the aluminum slightly. I'm not very concerned because it's only visible from the top or upon extremely close inspection, and it won't have any impact on function.

Aside from a bit more soldering (making cable extensions), that's where I'm at. All that's left is trying to assemble, which I'll be able to start soon.

Joined the forum just to say thanks for sharing. This thread has been most informative. You approach to installing a radiator in the top of TJ07 is the best I have seen. Most importantly I am learning alot from you. I look forward to your next update.
Thanks for posting; I'm glad you like the build. I'm very happy with how the top radiator mount is going, although cutting up the top of this case is not something I'd trust to a dremel. I didn't pay full price for the case, yet even putting it on the Bridgeport made me nervous. If you can live with a double radiator, a BIP2 or an MCR220 with 20mm thick fans should fit up there with next to no modification.

Rob Williams

09-25-2007, 03:03 AM

This build is going great to far Nate! I am really impressed. It's a lot more elaborate than I originally anticpated, especially the bottom of the case! Looking forward to more updates :D

MakubeX

09-25-2007, 09:48 AM

Looking awesome so far. Keep the pics coming! :)

Rory Buszka

09-25-2007, 10:09 AM

NicePants42

09-25-2007, 11:40 AM

Have you powered this up since you bonded the fan controller heatsinks to the aluminum chassis? Sometimes the back side of the transistors/regulators is energized (unless the manufacturer sprung for insulated components). You may need to buy some mica insulators.
Good call. I had assumed that they were insulated considering the way the unit is set up, but I'll try it out this evening with my test PSU. Can you elaborate on 'mica insulators'? Insulating washers and plastic screws would keep the charge off the case chassis, but that still leaves the entire mesh grill back panel - eeeeew. Maybe some non-conductive thermal pads on the regulators would do the job, as long as I got plastic screws to attach the heat sinks with...

In other news, I'm going to have to cut up the wire-hiding aluminum panel because the 8800GTX is longer than my motherboard by ~1". This will relieve the 24pin power cable issue, but will also make the area immediately behind the HDDs a little more cramped, and as a result I may not use a reservoir (since that's where I'd planned to put it). I'm going to try and do a complete mock-up today with tubes and everything to see how things are going to look.

Tech-Daddy

09-25-2007, 03:06 PM

This is a GREAT Looking build bro! Really coming along nicely and very well thought out!

Keep it up!

madstork91

09-25-2007, 11:49 PM

This is a GREAT Looking build bro! Really coming along nicely and very well thought out!

Keep it up!

Thats a compliment from one of the best mod on the internetz.

NicePants42

09-26-2007, 10:27 AM

Thats a compliment from one of the best mod on the internetz.
Uh, thanks, Stork. Glad you like it? j/k

Anyhoo, I want to apologize for the lack of updates this week - I did a bunch of test fitting yesterday and was pretty happy with everything except the reservoir. The Multioption 150 I have will fit, but is too short and is going to look like ass. Up to this point I've been a minimalist with regard to bling factor, but the reservoir is going to be my one conceit - otherwise I'll be wanting to re-make the loop as soon as it's done.

So I've got a multioption 250 on the way now, and I know exactly how I'm going to mount it, and it's going to look fan-bleeping-tastic. Although it's killing me to wait until Friday (when it's going to arrive), it'll be worth it in the end. At least, it'll be worth it to me. :D

Hang in there.

Tech-Daddy

09-27-2007, 10:06 PM

I have 2 of those res's... dont they freakin ROCK!!?!?!

I can't wait to get mine in! I've been leak testing my fittings for the last few days...

:)

sbrehm72255

09-28-2007, 12:48 AM

They are supposed to be pretty nice res's from what I hear. Anymore these days I just use a simple "T" line for my 1/2" loop and a Micer res on the little 3/8" GPU loop. Does the job I need it to do and it's cheap...........;)

Tech-Daddy

09-28-2007, 12:29 PM

Yeah... but you know me.... I'm all about the "presentation"...

Ijust really like how clean and flexible those res's are. So many different plumbing options/directions... really like it.

Can you tell I'm excited by them? ;)

sbrehm72255

09-28-2007, 12:50 PM

LOL..........yuppers, that I can, they are one of the best, if not the best out there right now.........;) Retail anyways, seen a few extreme ones built by users before, but the one you all got make for some clean installs, that's for sure.

I opt for the cheapest method most of the time (for a res), I'm dirt poor as they say.

NicePants42

10-01-2007, 12:59 AM

Ok, sorry for the delay but I kinda had to get the system up and running before I could post an update. The wiring isn't done yet, but the water loop is together and the system is running (apparently) fine now.

I'll start this update with the last things I did before assembly.

Before the multioption 250 arrived, I spent a bit getting the tubing ready for the base.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2373.jpg
I used about 3 of these copper 90 degree bends - 2 in the base, 1 in the top. Not the prettiest thing you ever saw, but recall MartinM210's restriction testing with copper 90 degree bends.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2373.jpg
Here are all the tubes for the base.

I also had to drill a couple holes in the divider plate - one is for the reservoir to pump 1 line, the other is to hold a panel mount quick-disconnect socket. I'd initially planned to mount the QD in a piece of plexi, but that would've caused lines to collide in the base.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2375.jpg

Then there were the notches in the aluminum panel
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2379.jpg
These are to accomodate the 8800GTX and the 24pin power plug.

Then it was time for the radiators to get cleaned.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2363.jpg
Here's a nice shot of some G1/4 threaded 1/2" ID fittings - from left to right: D-Tek, Swiftech, EK, EK Stubby. Initially I'd thought the stubbies might help, but I think they're too short for worm gears and the threaded length is short too. All of these fittings EXCEPT Swiftech's use a groove to 'capture' the O-ring. This is generally helpful, however I would suggest using Swiftech barbs on Swiftech radiators because the female fittings on MCR radiators also have a groove to accept the O-ring - so if both the male and female side have an O-ring groove, there might not be enough pressure on the O-ring to make a tight seal. Also, the diameter of the hex base on the Swiftech fittings is slightly smaller than the other fittings, ensuring that it sits completely into the female fitting on the radiator. I ended up using EK fittings on both lower radiators without problems (yet) but the top radiator was another story (which you'll see).

I filled the rads with boiling distilled water about 5 times to clean them out.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2366.jpg
Added fans:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2372.jpg

I also cleaned the blocks with boiling distilled water and some vinegar.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2367.jpg
The Fuzion had some gunk:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2368.jpg
but not any more.

The naked 8800GTX
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2425-1.jpg
With ramsinks
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2427-1.jpg
Thermal tape sucks, so I spent some time cleaning the ramsinks and used Arctic Silver Ceramique and some superglue instead
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2433-1.jpg

I'm using a lapped Q6600
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2424-1.jpg
I got this CPU second hand for just a bit over retail - it's already been lapped, and is supposedly a pretty decent overclocker. Annaconda was the original owner and posted a thread showing how he lapped it (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=156774). Considering all the other crap that needed to be done with this project, I was happy not to have to lap a CPU. Especially since the glass table I usually lap on was recently replaced with a wooden one.

I also had to open up the hole for the cables in the HDD cage.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2405-1.jpg

Up next, the build.

NicePants42

10-01-2007, 01:31 AM

Starting with the base:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2380-1.jpg

First piece was the double radiator. The divider plate is to help me figure out the routing.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2382-1.jpg

Then I added the lower triple
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2385-1.jpg

Here's a close view of the front tubes
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2386-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2392-1.jpg
There was a lot of cursing going on there.

Here's where pump 2 is going to go
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2384-1.jpg

Added some more tubes to pump 1
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2393-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2394-1.jpg

I then mounted the divider plate (to make sure all holes lined up) so that I could attach this reinforcement bracket for the rads - then I removed the divider plate again.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2387-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2388-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2395-1.jpg

Then pump 2 went in
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2397-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2398-1.jpg

Note that I can access both pump speed controls by removing the side panels
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2399-1.jpg

Then the divider plate was set on
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2403-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2410-1.jpg

At this point I started adding the front devices
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2407-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2408-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2409-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2411-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2412-1.jpg
The cables were cursed several times.

You can see how I intend to hide the cables
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2413-1.jpg

Continued in the next post...

NicePants42

10-01-2007, 01:32 AM

Test fit the motherboard
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2416-2.jpg

Mount the top radiator
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2417-1.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2419-1.jpg
I'll note here that I tested my 'flame-polishing' skill on a piece of scrap plexi and was less than impressed. I couldn't get the edges looking any better than they looked with a little high grit sanding, and on top of that the flame left a small visible ridge along the top/bottom of the piece. It didn't look bad, but it didn't look any better either - I will be the first to say that this could easily have been my lack of skill or proper tools (I was using one of those small grill lighters with the trigger action). I decided that I didn't want to risk ruining my top plate in an ill-prepared attempt at better edges.

This helps me determine where the reservoir goes
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2421-1.jpg
Yeah, it's not perfectly straight but I only had one rev1 holding bracket, and I don't like the rev2 holders. Plus, given how "accurate" the hole for the res outlet line is, I'm sure the extra play is helpful.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2422-1.jpg
Those hoses are going to get changed later

Then it was time to set up the motherboard
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2435.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2436.jpg
There's a QD on either side of the motherboard portion of the loop so that I can easily pull the motherboard out of the case without draining anything. Considering the complexity of the loop, I really like this feature. It has already been IMMENSLY useful, and the QDs work extremely well. Yes, it's a little added flow restriction, but considering how easy it will be to swap hardware, (Yorkfield and G92, anyone?) I think it's very well worth it. Even if the whole motherboard portion of the loop needs to be drained (block replacement/modification, more blocks, etc.) the reservoir has plenty of fluid to compensate, so it's still as simple as plug and play.

When I first tried to hook everything up, I realized that the top QD on top radiator was too hard to access, so I swapped the connections to bring the QD to the front. Then it all came together.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2437.jpg

Then it was time to mix the fluid. 1 gallon distilled water = 3.8L. I removed 360mL distilled water, added 240mL Pentosin G11 and 7 drops PT Nuke. Result is ~6.6% concentration of pentosin G11 (all-copper loop, so that should be fine) and plenty of biocide.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2439-1.jpg

Those QD's are also helpful for filling. There's a socket and a plug on each partof the loop, so I have one spare socket and plug that allows me to fill/drain both parts. Economical!
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2440-1.jpg

Before I began filling, I opened a beer - I immediately realized my mistake and put it back in the fridge before drinking any, but it was already too late. I had jinxed myself.

Filling went well.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2441-1.jpg

The fill port folds up into the top 2 bays. In the future those bays might be used for lighting switches or an LCD or something. I used about half of the coolant I mixed to fill the loop. I'll save the rest (somewhere dark) for later.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2443.jpg

When I started running the pumps the top radiator started leaking at both barb connections. I'll note here that I used EK fittings on all these radiators with some teflon thread sealant. Seeing the top rad leak made me check the lower radiators very, very closely. No other leaks were found.

So I replaced the EK fittings on the top radiator with Swiftech fittings and reinstalled it. No more leaks. Note to self: don't open celebratory beer prematurely ever again.

I didn't take any pictures of the leak rework because I didn't want to throw the camera against a wall. :D Suffice it to say it was a frustrating PITA, but I'm glad that I didn't have to get at the lower radiators - and I got pretty good at using the QDs.

After running the loop for a bit (no leaks! Yet!), I dragged the system to the spare room, hooked up the wiring, and booted for the first time. Everything went good, and XP 64 was installed. Tomorrow I'll get the PSU and fan controller installed in the case and tidy up the wiring. Here's how the system looks now
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2447.jpg
Yeah, I'm using another rheobus at the moment (for the sake of easy wiring), but I did test the one that's in the case and all the channels function properly (the voltage regulators appear to be isolated) so there shouldn't be any problems there.

I had my beer while Windows installed, and these last 3 posts were done from the new rig. (Edit: Well, most of them. I just did a bunch of editing ;) )

Hope you guys like it! Now, it's time for me to go pass out.

sbrehm72255

10-01-2007, 11:29 AM

Nice work.........;), don't you love the way QD's make life so much easier to work on a system, I've been using them for years now............:)

http://www.systemcooling.com/waterbox-01.html

NicePants42

10-01-2007, 11:48 AM

Nice work.........;), don't you love the way QD's make life so much easier to work on a system, Thanks, and Yes.
I've been using them for years now............:)
http://www.systemcooling.com/waterbox-01.htmlI remember seeing that build somewhere a long time ago - probably one of the first times I'd seen QDs used.

NicePants42

10-02-2007, 04:56 AM

So now all that was left was to manage the cables. No problem.

Here's the case:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2450.jpg

And the PSU:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2451.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2452.jpg
Above, the cables on the left are the ones I'm going to use, and the ones on the right will not be used at all. Yeah, a modular PSU would've been nice, but I got this awesome piece of hardware (http://www.jonnyguru.com/review_details.php?id=114) for $179 after rebate, so I knew what I was getting into. Besides, I figure that since this is a mod log, it can't hurt to deal with the worst case scenario - someone else might learn something useful.

So anyway, here's what the fan controller is looking like
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2453.jpg
I carelessly broke some of the AS Thermal adhesive so I coated the connections with Ceramique.

And here's what I have to deal with on the back side of the motherboard tray
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2454.jpg
You'll notice that I pulled all the power cables through those two small rectangular holes I cut into the divider plate. It would've been nice if those holes were a tiny bit bigger, but it they worked.

So, all that mess might look intimidating, but you'd be surprised just how easy it is to compact all that stuff. A little folding and clamping and it's like all those cables aren't even th...
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2456.jpg
Oh my God, they're everywhere! Agh! Don't look! Get the damn side panel on!

Whew - ok, that sucked. The side panel fits on ok, but do yourself a freaking favor and get the modularized version of this PSU if you intend to cram all this stuff into one case, ok? That took a LONG TIME, and it's going to lessen that 'Wow, that was easy!' feeling I was going for in terms of swapping hardware.

I also added some new feet.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2463.jpg

That about does it, so let's have some glamour shots (just pretend the pictures are good).
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2466.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2467.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2469.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2470.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2471.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2472.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2473.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2474.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2475.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2476.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2478.jpg

It weighs in at 63lbs
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2480.jpg
which is actually 4lb lighter than my previous setup.

As far as noise is concerned, I can pretty much make this thing as loud as I want. Right now I have the pumps on the lowest setting and the fans turned down to ~7-8v. The loudest thing by far are the WD Raptor drives - I actually crawled around the case listening to the fans and adjusting the speeds trying to figure out where the noise is coming from, and I finally realized it was the raptors - in my old system the pumps were set to maximum and I never heard the HDDs. Aside from the HDDs I can hear a little bit of air movement, but, wow, I might have to try and replace those raptors - they're really noticeable. Cranking the fans up helps a bit.

So, there you have it, pretty much. One TJ07 case, two MCR320s, one MCR220, two MCP655s, all set up so that I can swap out hardware without draining the loop.

In the future I may try to hide the PCI Express cables a little better, and if I get really ambitious I might try to make a cleaner looking aluminum plate to hide cables, but for now, I think it looks pretty freaking nice.

I'll post my system specs, overclocks, temperatures and benchmarks over the new few days.

Deathspine

10-03-2007, 01:24 AM

Merlin

10-03-2007, 05:30 AM

Man, That's a SWEET Build
I'll be looking for the benches

Merlin

NicePants42

10-03-2007, 11:41 AM

NICE JOB! I will be studying this one for a few days. Really planning to add a radiator to the top of my TJ07. Plan to copy yours but with two 120s radiator not three. Hope to just use the present opening at the top. Very much like the way you did that.

What you are planning shouldn't be a problem. A BIP with 25mm fans or an MCR with 20mm fans should fit without issues, and there are a lot of easy ways to get more space for MCR+25mm fans, like this, for example (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2450069&postcount=14).

Man, That's a SWEET Build
I'll be looking for the benches

MerlinGlad you like it. One thing that I may change in the future is the way I use the ports on the reservoir. I think the current reservoir orientation is good, but I think bleeding would be easier if the fill tube was attached to the top port instead of the side. The way it is now, there is still a small air bubble in the top of the reservoir. I tried turning the pumps up to setting 3 last night, and the air that was left in the top of the reservoir was quickly pulled down into the pumps.

So far I've managed to test the CPU at 3.474Ghz, but it seems to require a lot of voltage, so I'll need to read up on overclocking the IP35-Pro.

DarkSynergy

10-03-2007, 12:08 PM

We should be posting my review of the IP35-Pro in the coming week... is there anything that you would like to know?

That aside, spectacular work log and the final PC is proof of your skill. Well done.

MakubeX

10-03-2007, 02:00 PM

Awesome work NicePants. The rig looks friggin sweet! :D

moon111

10-03-2007, 04:22 PM

For all the plumbing, wiring, etc... that looks very neatly done. The res looks good.

Deathspine

10-04-2007, 02:29 AM

NicePants42

10-04-2007, 08:23 AM

I continue to study your project with much interest. I was wondering if you could share some information about the QDs (quick disconnects) in your system. I have never heard of those before and it does sound like a very useful idea especially given the frequency one usually mess with the system as one make those constant grades.

Thanks
No problem. These QDs are made by Colder, and are considered to be the best choice for PC water coolers because they are industrial grade parts, and supposedly have compartively low flow restriction. I got these from McMaster Carr, who's catalogue has some more detail.

McMaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com/), catalogue page 174 should be informative. The part numbers I used in the build (you can just type these numbers into the search field at mcmaster.com):

51545K34 - Basic socket for 3/8" coupler, with 1/2" barb and shut-off valve
51545K36 - Panel mount socket for 3/8" coupler, with 1/2" barb and shut-off valve
51545K54 - Basic 3/8" coupler with 1/2" barb and shut-off valve
51545K56 - 90-degree 3/8" coupler with 1/2" barb and shut-off valve

These are also available without shut-off valves, although that pretty much defeats the purpose of having them because you don't want liquid spilling everywhere when you disconnect them.

Edit: I use McMaster Carr because they are so close that I get next day delivery via ground. Also, they are very, very nice about letting me return things. I'll tell you something embarrassing: At first I purchased the straight-thru connectors (without shut-off valve). McMaster let me return the order. Then, I ordered extra QDs (realized later that I could use one socket and one plug on each part of the loop, reducing the extra parts I need to fill/bleed) and I also ordered 3/8" to 1/4" thread reducing fittings for the MCR320s that it turns out I didn't need (Swiftech is now using 1/4" BSPP threads on all their rads now) so I sent back more stuff. I had zero problems sending the stuff back and getting credited. McMaster Carr is made of win.

sbrehm72255

10-04-2007, 10:36 AM

Here's another place to get the fittings........;). I don't know which one is better these days, I got mine here around 3 years ago.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=6917&product%5Fid=7413

More info can be found here:

http://www.colder.com/Products/Plastic/tabid/693/Default.aspx?ProductId=14

Deathspine

10-04-2007, 11:46 PM

I can't go wrong now, the details you provide is most welcome.

Thanks again.

Tech-Daddy

10-06-2007, 11:50 PM

That thing is a stunner, excellent work through out!
*applause*

Great job! You are making me think about QD's in my next build.... ;)

NicePants42

10-07-2007, 01:23 AM

They are extremely helpful. I still have to deal with all the wiring/connections, but not having to drain the entire loop to swap hardware is great.

I just pulled out the motherboard to remount the CPU block, and I'll be adding some lighting ~Tuesday. I've also relocated the fill port to the 'top'-most reservoir port (for better bleeding), but I want to use 3/8" tubing to help reduce the kinking from the sharp bend, so the 3/8" barbs will be here ~Tuesday as well.

Coming from using UV red coolant, I have to say that Pentosin G11 kicks ass. Even with only a ~6.6% concentration, it lights up extremely well. I'm looking forward to getting the lighting done and posting more pics.

NicePants42

10-10-2007, 11:08 PM

Ok, so I wanted to try and make this thing easier to bleed, so instead of using the two side ports on the top of the reservoir, I decided to try using one side port (for the return) and the top port for the fill/bleed line. With the revision 2 'base', there is a large-ish wall separating the two side ports, so I used the ports such that the fill line and return line were on the same side of the wall, in an effort to prevent air from getting trapped on the other side of the wall.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2483.jpg
That's how it looks now. It's still a PITA to bleed, but I found that I could trap air in the reservoir by laying the case so that the window is facing up while the system was running, then when I shut the system off and righted the case, the bubbled went straight to the bleed line. Good enough, I guess. To prevent the bleed line from kinking, I used 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD tube.

When I ordered the 3/8" barbs, I also got some lights.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2482.jpg
I ordered a white cold cathode, some switch wiring (which I lengthened myself) and a UV LED that fits into a clear G1/4 plug, with the idea that this would look neat mounted in the top of the reservoir. The front panel with the switches came with the case when I got it from the previous owner.

The lights were easy to set up. Here are some shots of how the rig looks now.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2491.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2484.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2485.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g228/nicepants42/Mod%20log/IMG_2487.jpg
The white light looks a lot better in person, and helps me hook up cables in the dark.

*Edit: Good UV pics are a couple posts down.

I'm pretty happy with the way that the UV looks - it's miles better than my old 'red' setup.

*EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention - that UV LED and clear G1/4 plug (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=239&products_id=20560) is made by Alphacool, and in my opinion the LED is much too weak. I didn't wire the LED to s switch, so it's always on, but I can't see any effect whatsoever, even looking at the reservoir at an angle to see up to the top. It's crap, and I'll replace it with a temperature probe if I ever add a flow meter or front LCD monitor.

Now I'm trying to get the stable overclock dailed in. I'm currently running the CPU at 3.2Ghz @1.4V, and the 8800GTX is probably going to top out ~660/940. CPU load temps are 55C according to CoreTemp (this is a B3 Q6600), and the 8800GTX load temp never exceeds 46C with full system load according to AtiTool. I'll try to get some screens of this posted shortly.

Rory Buszka

10-11-2007, 01:44 PM

Hi, guy.

The only thing I think I'd change if I had the opportunity is that I'd reverse the fans on the top radiator so they're sucking air from the radiator and blowing it out the top of the case. I don't know if it would make a difference, but warm air naturally rises, so you'd be drawing the heat straight out of the case instead of blowing it back in. This isn't a high-priority change, though -- that's a phenomenal system, and you deserve to enjoy it for a few weeks before you go changing anything.

NicePants42

10-11-2007, 03:02 PM

The only thing I think I'd change if I had the opportunity is that I'd reverse the fans on the top radiator so they're sucking air from the radiator and blowing it out the top of the case. I don't know if it would make a difference, but warm air naturally rises, so you'd be drawing the heat straight out of the case instead of blowing it back in. This isn't a high-priority change, though -- that's a phenomenal system, and you deserve to enjoy it for a few weeks before you go changing anything.
Thanks for your recommendation. I understand what you are saying, and this change would work. I will explain why I set it up with the fans blowing in.

I wanted to maintain positive pressure in the top of the case in order to help prevent dust from being sucked in between the nylon spacer plate and the top sheet of Plexiglass. This will happen eventually (because small particles of dust that came through the filters will get in there on it's way out of the case), but I'm trying to delay it. In general I prefer positive case pressure with filtered air over other options.

So, with the top fans exhausting, and the HDD fan sucking, I'd need to have the 92mm fans on the back as intakes, and I'd probably have to run them fairly fast to maintain positive pressure. These are quiet 92mm fans, but they're audible at full speed. As it is now, the 92mm fans do a good enough job exhausting at low speed, and I get my positive pressure.

Also, the most efficient way to cool a radiator is with the coolest air available - and with a 3x120mm opening in the top as an intake, the entire system can benefit from a steady supply of cool air, (instead of a 2x92mm surface at the top rear) which is then exhausted out the back (either through the 92mm fans or through the open PCI slots).

I judged that I would have more efficient cooling with (slightly) less noise while maintaining positive case pressure using filtered air with the current setup. I'm sure that your suggestion would work, but at this point the only thing I plan to change in the near future would be adding a nozzle to my Fusion.